Introducing: Machu Picchu and the Amazon
North Star Adventure’s Tom grew up on stories of the Lost World and Spanish conquistadors in Latin America. As an established canoe coach, he was approached one day by the British Exploring Society and asked if he would lead a canoe expedition on the Amazon in Northern Peru. Almost by accident, Tom had landed his dream career: leading adventure expeditions and trips around the world. Over the next several years, he revisited Peru and led further teams on treks through the Andean mountain ranges and jungles of this incredibly diverse country. “Latin America has a pulsating heart and has a way of getting under your skin”.
Mystical, magical Machu Picchu
Let’s get it out of the way. Machu Picchu is clearly the crown jewel of Peru’s attractions and remains shrouded by mystery and intrigue. Built by the Inca civilisation in the 15th century, perched high on a seemingly impenetrable mountain top, it remained hidden from Spanish conquistadors. Partially reclaimed by the jungle, Hiram Bingham rediscovered the ruins in 1911. Actually, there were three indigenous families farming on its terraces so it hadn’t been completely forgotten about!
In any case, believe the hype. This is truly one of the seven wonders of the world. We think you’ll be just as blown away by the stunning geographical position of Machu Picchu as you will the citadel itself. Access to the site has recently been tightened up and visitors are allocated timed entries. The famous peak that looms over the site, Huayna Picchu, used to be free to climb but is now only accessible with an upgraded entrance ticket. The climb is a little sketchy and features some scrambling and fixed ropes but does afford a different perspective on Machu Picchu. New rules also prohibit visitors from accessing the citadel without a guide although all North Star Adventure trips include these as standard.
There are three ways to arrive in to Machu Picchu: trekking on one of the many trails, bus from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (the little tourist town that has popped up in the shadow of Machu Picchu) or train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes.
Which Inca trail trek?
There are numerous ways of getting to Machu Picchu on foot. Trekking into Machu Picchu is well within most people’s ability with some preparation. The trail covers steep steps, inclines and rocky ground and falls into the category of ‘high altitude’; the air is thinner and this makes everything harder work. Careful acclimatisation is key and all our itineraries allow for time your body to adjust. There are quite a few ‘Inca trails’ but only one that is often referred to as the ‘Classic Inca Trail’ but they all offer a similar experience. Make sure you pick an operator who brings social and economic benefits to the local rural communities you will meet on the way. Check out our own Classic Inca Trail to see a sterling example of how this can be done well. Supported treks such as ours bring much needed local employment to porters and trail chefs. Arrive at the end of a long day of trekking to find your tent already set up, complete with your luggage, and a delicious meal served each night too. To minimise the impact and damage to the trail, permits are required for the classic trail and are strictly limited to 600 a day. 400 of these are for support crew and porters meaning only 200 trekkers are permitted to set off on the trail each day, and they do sell out fast!
Thankfully, there are other options for those who like to seek the adventure alternative. If you want to step it up a little in the comfort stakes but still have a thirst for adventure, then our Luxury Lodge Salkantay Trek could be just the ticket! The trek visits four lodges dotted along the Salkantay trail, which despite not being restricted remains a quieter approach to Machu Picchu. These exclusive lodges feature comfortably appointed private rooms and hot tubs and beautifully prepared food and drinks are included. The views on the Salkantay trail are arguably better than the classic trail and this is certainly no poor relation.
Regardless of the route you choose, you will fly into Cusco to access them. This is a North Star Adventure favourite and we love sitting on a restaurant terrace sipping a coffee whilst people watching across the colonial Plaza del Armas. Cusco is the jumping off point for all adventures in the Sacred Valley and also a great base to plan further adventures to add to your Inca trail experience. Why not take a flight to Puerto Maldonado and immerse yourself in the Amazon rainforest in the Tambopata Nature Reserve (see below).
The Peruvian Amazon
The headwaters of the Amazon rise in the foothills of the Peruvian Andes. Bisected by this mountain range from north to south, Peru is largely desert along the coastal strip to the west and sticky and humid jungle to the east. The Amazon rainforest is a stunning environment, absolutely teaming with wildlife and not to be missed if you have the time. Tom says “you will never forget the first time you hear the spine-tingling roar of howler monkey in the early morning or the excitement of seeing a pink river dolphin”. The Amazon is teeming with incredible wildlife!
There are two key gateways to the rainforest in Peru, both offering very different experiences. In the north-east corner of Peru lies the isolated jungle city of Iquitos accessible by river or air only. In the late 19th century, it experienced a huge boom thanks to rubber production before slipping into decline. It is the perfect place to join a riverboat cruise to explore the tributaries of the upper Amazon such as the Maranon and Ucayali, where Tom led his first river expedition all those years ago. These riverboats slowly transit up and down the river, often stopping to allow passengers to alight in small dinghies and canoes to observe the incredible wildlife up close.
Nearer to Cusco and Machu Picchu, one can take the short flight to Puerto Maldonado. From here, there are a number of rainforest lodges accessible only by motorised canoe. These lodges are often traditionally built, high on stilts, and allow guests to fall asleep to the nocturnal chorus of the jungle wildlife and are connected to numerous trails that afford observers unparalleled access to nature.
North Star Adventure UK can arrange both riverboat cruises in Iquitos and rainforest lodge experiences. Please contact us for further details.
Beyond Machu Picchu
Peru is absolutely packed with must-see sights. Many people arrive into Lima and head straight out to Cusco or the Amazon but the bohemian streets of Barranco and the cliff-top walks in Miraflores are both worthy and deserving of some time spent exploring. To the north, one can find the incredible surf-mecca of Mancora, perfect for a beach break and to the south there are the mystical Nazca Lines and the beautiful colonial white city of Arequipa. The latter is a perfect base to spend a week visiting the Colca Canyon to watch majestic condors soaring overhead and perusing the artisan shops and burgeoning restaurant scene.
Further south still and nestled on the shores of Lake Titicaca lies Puno. Puno isn’t particularly interesting but is the gateway to exploring Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. There are the islands of Amantani and Taquile, where one can arrange a rustic homestay and learn about how these people carve out an existence on the turquoise waters of this magnificent lake.
Ceviche to chicharron - Peru on a plate
We love nothing more than seeking out authentic street food and local delicacies. Peru is one of the most exciting foodie destinations in the world and its culinary star is rising fast. One of its most famous national dishes is that of ceviche: spanking fresh raw seafood, chopped and briefly marinated and cured in a blend of freshly squeezed citrus juices, salt, shallots and chilli. Often served with mashed sweet potato and corn kernals, this is a zingy, refreshing plate of food; a perfect meal to wash down with a cold beer. Chicharron is a wildly popular snack across Latin America and is very similar to the classic British pub snack of pork scratchings. Head into the Andes and meals become more substantial and filling and you could find yourself tucking into pan-fried trout from a mountain stream or another Peruvian classic: lomo saltado, a fusion dish of stir-fried beef and vegetables on a bed of French fries - just what you need for post-mountain refuelling! Along the Inca Trail, you will find trees groaning under the weight of avocados and mandarins which both make for a great snack. One of Tom’s favourites remains anticuchos; thinly sliced beef-heart marinated and gently cooked to tenderness over a street-side charcoal BBQ and served with a piquant salsa verde. Delicious! Finally, and not to be missed, is the classic Peruvian cocktail: the Pisco sour. Using Pisco (a clear grape brandy) mixed with fresh lime juce, sugar, frothy egg-white and angostura bitters, this is a decidedly moreish drink.
Visit Peru
The best time of year to go is during the dry season. This largely runs between May and October. Expect wide, blue skies with lots of sun with temperatures that drop significantly at night. This is particularly true when trekking in the Andes and in the Sacred Valley around Cusco. There is more rainfall during the winter, but this is counterbalanced with cheaper prices, less tourists and verdant greenery. We love it all! The sweet spot would be the shoulder months of April/May. In the jungle, expect it to be sticky, hot and humid all through the year.
There are numerous routes to Peru from the UK. You generally have a choice of transiting through the US or a European city. Our choice would always be through Europe to avoid the hassle of US immigration control. This also opens up a wide range of regional airports avoiding the need to travel to London. Expect flights times of around 15+ hours. At the time of writing, KLM were offering super convenient flights departing on 26th March 2022 from London and regional airports for around £460 return via Amsterdam. For those basing their stay in Cusco and the Sacred Valley, we found flights with Air France + LATAM for £555 via Paris and Lima. Cheap flights are available from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado to explore the Amazon Rainforest.
Visas are not required for UK passport holders.
Travel to Peru with North Star Adventure by joining our Classic Inca Trail trek or our Luxury Lodges Salkantay Trek. We also offer other routes into Machu Picchu, such as the Lares Trail or even a horse-back adventure for equestrians. Get in touch to find out more!
